Opener not working? Work through this.
When the opener quits, the cause is usually one of a handful of things. Work down this list from simplest to most involved.
Power and basics
Confirm the opener is plugged in and the outlet has power. A surge (common in Tampa storms) can trip a GFCI or the opener’s internal fuse. Try the hardwired wall button — if it works but remotes don’t, the opener is fine and the issue is the remotes.
Remotes and keypad
Replace remote batteries first. If a new battery doesn’t help, reprogram the remote to the opener (the ‘learn’ button on the motor unit). A keypad that forgot its code after a power loss just needs reprogramming.
Sensors and travel limits
Misaligned photo-eyes stop the door from closing — align them until both show steady lights. If the door reverses before hitting the floor or won’t close fully, the travel limits or force settings drifted and need adjustment.
When to replace
If the opener is 15+ years old, loud, lacks safety reverse, or has no battery backup, repair money is better spent on a new one. See opener installation — quiet belt drives with battery backup are Florida code for new installs.
Questions, answered.
01.Why does my garage door opener run but the door doesn’t move?+
The trolley likely disconnected from the carriage (someone pulled the emergency release). Re-engage it, or the gear/belt may have stripped and need service.
02.My opener works intermittently — what’s wrong?+
Intermittent operation often means worn gears, a failing logic board, or interference. Have it diagnosed before it fails completely.
03.Do I need a new opener or just a repair?+
Under ~10 years with a small issue, repair. Older, loud, or missing safety reverse and battery backup — replacement is the better value.